PSI Designer Mont Blanc® Fountain Pen

By Trent Kelly

I turned this pen on my JET JWL 1236 lathe with my standard full size turning tools.  I used my home made blank drilling jig and a 7mm Morse Taper #2 mandrel.  Both drill bits in the PKMONT-SD3 bit set are required.  The bushing set is PKMONT-BU3.  The pen kit is PKMONT-FTP

Blanks should start out 3/4" X 3/4" (5/8" X 5/8" minimum).  1/2" X 1/2" blanks are not large enough for this pen kit.  I chose bocote wood for this project.  As usual, the blanks need to be just slightly longer than the brass tubes.

I encountered two problems while drilling the center holes for these blanks.  The first problem is that the length of hole necessary was longer than the stroke of my drill press.  I drilled the hole as far as I could with one stroke and then raised the table up with the bit inside the hole so that the second stroke could complete the required depth.  The second problem was that I needed to push the end of the bit through my t-track in order to get the proper depth for inserting the tubes all the way into the blanks.  I used a high speed drill bit to make a through hole in my jig to allow the SD3 bits to drill to the required depths.  I doubt drilling through aluminum t-track would dull the SD3 bits, but I didn't take the chance.

With the holes drilled, glue the tubes inside the wood blanks using Cyanoacrylate adhesive.  For each blank, put a light bead down the length of the tube on two sides and rotate it as you push it into the blank.  Make sure the tubes are completely inside the wood blanks and let them dry.

When the glue is dry trim the ends of the blanks down to the tubes.  Make sure the ends are square.  I used my 1X30 belt sander with a block clamped on it as a guide to keep the ends square.

With the pen blanks prepared, mount them on the mandrel.  The upper cap bushing goes on first, followed by the upper blank.  Next are the center bushing, the lower blank, and the lower bushing.  Once you have the nut tight bring the tailstock up to the mandrel so that the live center will keep the other end of the mandrel on center.  Don't over tighten the tail center against the mandrel.

Set the lathe to a slow speed.  I rounded the blanks with my 3/8" spindle gouge.  Turn the blanks down to the profile.  The profile should be the same diameter as the bushings on each end so that the pen hardware mounts and looks correct.  The part of the upper blank near the center bushing should be the same diameter as the bushing for the last 5/16" or more.  Some of the wood near the bushing will be removed, and the outside diameter of the upper blank should match the outside diameter of the center band where they connect.

With the outside shaped, wood must be removed down to the brass tube to make room for the center band.  The finished length of the wood on the upper blank should be 1 15/16 inches, and the corner where the brass is exposed must be sharp for proper mating of the center band to the wood.  If the length of the wood is longer near the brass than it is on the outer diameter there will be gap between the center band and the wood.  My diamond parting tool is the same width as the wood to be removed.  I made one clean cut down to the brass right next to the bushing.

With the cutting complete, finish sand the spindles with progressive grits down to 400 or higher.  I took this one down to 1500.  Remove the tool rest during sanding for additional safety.  When the sanding is complete, clean the spindles with tack cloth and apply your finish of choice.  I used Behlen Woodturner's Finish and applied three coats before removing the spindles from the mandrel.

Assemble the pen according to the instructions.  A wood vise can be used to clamp the center band while the glue dries and to press parts in place.

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