3 Inch Candle Holder Construction

 By Trent Kelly

I originally designed this project to be something I could build with 3/4 inch thick red oak that was easy to find at a local hardware store.  In this procedure, I am using a thick piece (over two inches) of carob for the base with 1 inch thick pieces for the top and legs.  If you choose to make all the pieces with 3/4 inch material that is easier to access, I think you will find that the end result is still a well balanced and elegant candle holder.   For this one, I made the legs 4 inches tall.  My original in 3/4 inch oak had 3 inch tall legs.

The tools I used to complete this project include scroll saw, vertical 1 X 30 belt sander, drill press,  drill motor, 30-60-90 triangle, drafting compass, carpenter's square, size 8 counter sink, router table, clamps, and 3 inch diameter forstner bit.  This project can be constructed using a wide variety of hand tools or power tools to reach the same end result.

Step 1. Design

If material size permits, a base of seven inches in diameter and a top of 5 inches are a well matched pair.  The width of carob I used for the base was only 6.5 inches wide which still works with a 5 inch diameter top.

Step 2. Layout for base and top

The suggestions here for which side to use for layout lines is written under the assumption that you are going to use a drill press to drill straight holes.  If you plan to use a hand held drill motor it would be a good idea to draw layout lines on the best side of the base and the opposite side of the top so that the screws center in the legs.  The center point of the top material should be carefully marked on the best side as well as the opposite side when not using a drill press so that the center position of the candle recess can be located.

Determine which side of the base material is the best side.  Draw layout lines on the opposite side.  Measure and mark the diameter line across the center and the center point for the base circle.  Adjust the drafting compass to the desired radius, push the point into the wood at the center mark, and draw the outer circle.  Use a 30-60-90 triangle or a protractor to mark the radius lines spaced 120 degrees apart, one which is in the direction of the grain.  Adjust the drafting compass to a radius of two inches.  Make center lines where the compass crosses each of the 120 degree lines.

Determine which side of the top material is the best side.  Draw layout lines on the best side.  Measure and mark the diameter line across the center and the center point for the base circle.  Adjust the drafting compass to the desired radius, push the point into the wood at the center mark, and draw the outer circle.  Use a 30-60-90 triangle or a protractor to mark the radius lines spaced 120 degrees apart, one which is in the direction of the grain.  Adjust the drafting compass to a radius of one inches.  Make center lines where the compass crosses each of the 120 degree lines.

Step 3. Drill screw holes

Select a drill bit smaller than a size 8 screw.  Drill three holes through the base and three holes through the top where the 120 degree lines are crossed by the 2 inch and 1 inch radius lines respectively.  

Step 4. Recess the top to accommodate the candle

Use a drill press and 3 inch diameter forstner bit to remove 1/4 to 3/8 inch depth of wood from the best side of the top material.  This can also be done with a router and a guide or with carving gouges.

Step 5. Cutout base and top

Cut just outside the outlines of the base material and top material.

Step 6. Sand outside edges of base and top

Sand the outside edges of the base material and top material down to the outlines.  This is easily accomplished with a stationary belt sander or disc sander.  Use a course grit abrasive to sand down to the outer edge of the line.  Follow up with a fine grit abrasive, 220 or finer, will save a lot of finish sanding time later.

Step 7. Layout legs

There are three legs that support the top on the base.  Each leg is four inches in total height.  The legs should be as wide as they are thick.  Since the carob I used was one inch thick, I made the legs one inch wide.  The centers of the legs (top and bottom) must be one inch apart so that they align with the screw holes in the top and base.  The diagonal section in the middle spans two inches of the height, leaving one inch of the height on each end to receive screws from the top and base.

Step 8. Cutout legs

Step 9. Sand legs

Sand the legs down to the layout lines.  Follow up with a fine grit abrasive.  Finish sanding will be done later.

Step 10. Make leg alignment jig

This jig is very helpful for drilling pilot holes for the screws into the legs.  The jig tightens on the leg and holds it perpendicular.  The center of the leg is located and indented.  Then the jig is clamped to the base or top to center the leg over the screw hole using a small nail or awl to align the indented center mark.

Size the slot for the thickness of wood being used for the legs.  Drill the bolt hole before cutting the slot.  The material removed by the saw blade while cutting out the slot allows the bolt to tighten the jig around the leg.

Step 11. Drill screw pilot holes into legs

Label each leg on top and bottom (T1 and B1, T2 and B2, T3 and B3).  Label the base and top holes to match the leg labels.  Make sure the labels align the grain direction of the top and base.

For each end of each leg, secure the leg in the jig, position and clamp the jig to the top or base, and use the existing screw hole in the top or base as the drill guide for pilot holes in the legs. 

If you have any doubts about the distance between centers on your legs or the positions of the screw holes in the top and base, drill all three top holes and only one base hole.  Follow steps 12 and 13 below for those 4 holes.  Screw the assembly together using those four screw holes.  Position all three legs, outline the positions for the two that need pilot holes, turn them to make sure the outline is in proper position.  Once sure of the outline location, swing the legs back into position, tighten the top screws, and use the base holes as drill guides for the remaining two pilot holes.  Then complete steps 12 and 13 for those two holes.

Step 12. Screw hole preparation

Counter sink top screw holes from the top and base screw holes from the bottom for a size 8 screw.  For thick bases, you might need to counter bore the screw holes rather than counter sink them to accommodate the length of screw you plan to use.

Step 13. Enlarge screw holes in base and top

The screw threads must be able spin freely in the top and base holes while grabbing the legs to draw them in for a tight fit.  Use a drill bit slightly larger than the outside of the screw threads to enlarge each hole in the base and each hole in the top.  Do not enlarge the pilot holes in the legs.

Step 14. Edge routing

Route the top edges of the top and base with a round-over bit or beading bit.  To help the thick base stand out, I also used a straight bit to rabbit approximately 1/8 X 1/8 of the bottom edge.

Step 15. Finish sand all parts

Make note of whether T1, T2, and  T3 are clockwise or counter-clockwise around the top and mark inside the countersink of T1 with a pencil so that you can match the correct legs to the correct holes after removing construction lines.  Erase construction lines and sand all parts with progressively finer grits of sand paper until you run out of finer grits or patience, whichever comes first.  Do not sand the top or bottom of the legs where they will screw to the base and top.  My patience ran out after 400 grit paper.

Step 16. Sign your work

Be sure to sign the bottom of the base so that your great grandchildren and the 2110 Antique Road Show will know you made it and when.  A very good way to do this is with black acrylic paint and a fine paint brush, available at your local art supply store.  I used Mars Black Liquitex® which is expected to show no discernable color change after 100 years of exposure to light in a museum!  The manufacturer recommends you let it dry for three days before going over it with a finish.  I only waited one day before applying my first coat of tung oil without incident.  I suggest you test the interaction between the paint drying time and the finish you use.  Dry to the touch does not mean that an acrylic paint is ready to interact with a solvent.

Step 17. Apply finish

Apply your choice of finish according to the manufacturer's instructions.  I applied several coats of high gloss tung oil.

Step 18. Assembly

Use size 8 counter sink wood screws of appropriate length to connect the top and base to the legs.

© 2007 Trent Kelly, All Rights Reserved

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